El Profesor Sebastian Mateo stands with his second grade class in
Patulup Segundo, a canton in the western reaches of Chichicastenango that
was particularly hard hit by violence during the late 1970s and early
1980s. Sebastian himself lost
two brothers, one to the Army and another to either the Army-run Civil
Patrol or to the Guerillas. He’s
not sure which because during the violence he was working as a shoe-shine
boy in Guatemala City's rough and dangerous Terminal Market.
Driven by some inner ambition to educate himself, Sebastian went to
night school until he finished diversificado (high school), then worked
for several years with OKMA, a team of linguists organized by famous
American anthropologists Nora England and Linda Schele, documenting the
Chichicastenango dialect of the Maya K’iche’ language.
Having since earned his secondary teaching certificate - attending
weekend university classes in Xela, two hours down the road, while working
three jobs during the week (for about $310 a month) - he is the most
credentialed teacher at his school. In
Patulup, he works exclusively with younger students because of his
proficiency and literacy in K’iche’.
Still within the municipality of Chichicastenango but far
away from the Pueblo of the same name, is the isolated little canton of
Chugüexa Segundo 'A'. To get here from the Pueblo, teachers
must take a 45 bus ride, then hike straight up a rutted road (which
depending on the season is clouded with choking, silicate dust, or sticky
with slick mud) for 45 minutes to a mountaintop that offers a fine view of
the east slope of the mountains that border Lake Atitlan's east shore, and
to Tecpan Guatemala, to the west. Serving some 250 kids, Chugüexa's
school is blessed with one of the finest and most ambitious Directors CEBAR
administrators have have had the pleasure to work with. Having the
advantage of actually having lived most of his life in Chugüexa II 'A',
Eduard grew up in a bilingual household - his father speaking K'iche', his
mother speaking Kaqchikel (spoken in the nearby aldeas of Tecpan, a short
walk down the mountain from Chugüexa), both of which he speaks
fluently. As a youngster, he learned Spanish, and in the years since
has been an energetic student of English - which he now speaks passably
well. Because of Eduard's enthusiasm and irrepresible commitment to
good education, this school will participate - despite its isolation which
makes it an inconvenient school to work with in terms of logistics - in a
pilot project sponsored in part by CEBAR which seeks to measure the [hopefully
positive] impact of increasing the amount of instruction offered in K'iche'
during the critical early years of primary education (K-3).

In contrast to the school at Patulup or Chugüexa II 'A'
(or virtually any of Chichi’s 70+ rural public schools), is the Catholic
school run by the Anunciata Dominican Sisters of Spain.
Spacious, bright and attractive, Anunciata is one of the most
costly private school in Chichi, with an annual cost of about $120 for
primary and about $160 for junior high.
In 2005, Cebar maintained
8 primary students and 12 junior high students at this lovely little
school.
All schools, private or public, in Chichi,
are overseen by the Ministry of Education. The experience of CEBAR
staff is that the 'coordinators' of the the local arm of the Ministry of
Education are dedicated, well-prepared, and enthusiastic about their
work. If there is a problem, personnel-wise, it is that most teachers
in Chichicastenago, like most teachers in Guatemala, work under a very safe
'civil service' structure. Only in the last few years has this
situation changed, so that teachers are now held more accountable for both
performance and for ongoing education.
Still, much improvement is needed (as it is in the United States and other
countries too!). Still, disorganization prevails in Guatemala as it
does in only poorly administered, quite simply 'poor´ countries around the
word. A picture of the offices of the local Chichi administrative
offices, labeled the Coordinaciones Tecnicas Administrativas shown here, is
evidence of the lack of resources available to the Ministry of
Education. The graffiti on the wall, perhaps unreadable from the
photo, says '18', the name of one of the most powerful and dangerous street gangs
in Guatemala. In small towns like Guatemala, it's a rather meaningless
symbol, except for the fact that it denotes loss of parental and village
control of young men. Without farms to work on, and without the
traditional village structure that kept adolescent boys and girls under
control, the kids run wild. In Chichi, the gangs ... even M18 (the 'M'
standing for 'mara,' which in Guatemala is used more commonly than 'pandilla,'
the other name used for street gangs in Latin America),
are for the most part blustery bunch of drunken, glue-sniffing 15 year-olds
who suffer more from boredom and identity loss than from criminal
impulse. But in the larger cities.
Dieciocho (18) is a murderous and very dangerous group of young men,
constantly at war with neighboring gangs. In one frightening comedic
event in summer of 2005, members of a rival gang, Salvatrucha, broke into
a prison to murder more than a dozen members of M18 imprisoned there. That fact
that the gangs prey primarily on each other gives little comfort
to most Guatemalans - as well as pointing with tragic clarity to the need
for viable career and identity alternatives for young adults in Guatemala..
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